Karl Lagerfeld stars in the Netflix Original series 7 Days Out.
“When people say couture is dead… perhaps for them, but not for us.” So said Karl Lagerfeld, just after he’d overseen the outing of 68 entirely handcrafted looks at the spring/summer 2018 Chanel haute couture show. Recorded by Andrew Rossi for the Netflix documentary – which goes behind the scenes at major live events in fashion, sports, space and food – the designer’s comment plainly contested the idea that high-fashion fantasy is dead.
Balmain haute couture spring/summer 1994 show.
Indeed, the idea that couture is on the wane positively flies in the face of 2019, with big brands promising a renewed focus on the rarefied craft of creating clothing for the individual, not the mass market. Balmain, under the helm of the spirited and dynamic designer Olivier Rousteing, returned to the couture calendar in January 2019 for the first time in 16 years; Hedi Slimane, now creative director at Celine, plans to expand into the category as part of his new vision for the label; and, more than ever before, young ready-to-wear labels – including Mary Katrantzou, Richard Quinn and Marine Serre – are exploring the notion of “ready-to-wear couture”.
Balmain haute couture spring/summer 2019 show.
“Haute couture is a growing market; fashion houses keep increasing their sales in this activity and the clientele is expanding, diversifying,” explains Ralph Toledano, president of both the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode and Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, the body in charge of all couture output. “Haute couture has always been, and remains, a land of free expression for designers, a land where creativity meets tradition with innovation.”
Balmain haute couture spring/summer 2019 show.
New technologies, he says, are helping to push boundaries and possibilities when it comes to couture, with innovative materials, techniques and approaches piquing the interest of previously untested audiences – including millennials. And where once the realm of such a world might have been considered old guard, reserved only for red carpets and grandiose weddings, suddenly couture feels in touch – and it’s striking a pertinent chord when it comes to our emotional needs as consumers.
Richard Quinn haute couture spring/summer 2019 show.
“There is more of an interest [in couture] because today everything [else] is trying to get us into the same mass-market culture,” says Parisian couturier Alexis Mabille, noting especially a desire for individuality and authenticity. He cites the importance of the unique relationship between the house and the customer, and the magic of a made-to-measure experience – which stands out as a true luxury in a sea of all too similar style right now. “Sensoriality is also key,” agrees Toledano. “As long as there are people looking for the exceptional, there will be haute couture.”
Celine haute couture spring/summer 2019 show.
Couture is making its mark within ready-to-wear, too. “It has become even more noticeable that brands are looking to expand their ready-to-wear couture offering,” observes Elizabeth von der Goltz, global buying director at Net-A-Porter, which has been growing this eveningwear category substantially, increasing it by over 50 per cent this year compared to last. “We’re seeing even more demand from our EIPs (Extremely Important People), who are looking for exquisite pieces to make a real entrance at their events.” Alexandre Vauthier and Ralph & Russo (both of which do ready-to-wear and couture), she notes, have become favourites.
Mary Katrantzou haute couture spring/summer 2019 show.
Indeed, the effect was strong among the spring/summer 2019 collections – runways were awash with feathers, voluminous shapes and the intricate embellishment so indicative of couture. “It’s what we’re calling ‘modern couture’,” says von der Goltz. Matchesfashion.com, too, is focusing on “demi-couture” for the new season – something that was very much in action at Mary Katrantzou’s 10th anniversary show this past London Fashion Week.
Mary Katrantzou haute couture spring/summer 2019 show.
The designer, famed for her exquisite “lampshade” skirts and “perfume bottle” dresses, went big on couture-like techniques for her collection, with around 90 per cent of the looks revealing an incredible level of detail and craftsmanship. Katrantzou is no stranger to this approach; outside of ready-to-wear, she often works with private clients designing bespoke pieces for celebrities including Beyoncé and Cate Blanchett.
Jean-Paul Gaultier haute couture autumn/winter ’18/’19 show.
Couture’s extension beyond the salons of select maisons can be traced back to 1997, when the status of “guest member” was created by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode. Guest member status granted new, less traditional and non-French names a place on the schedule of this highly closed-doors, invitation-only industry (haute couture follows strict rules about who can show and when, and what qualifies as “couture”). Exploration of new techniques followed; aesthetics began to diversify and move away from traditional high-society styles. Then came business strategy.
Viktor & Rolf haute couture autumn/winter ’18/’19 show.
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In 2014, both Jean Paul Gaultier and Viktor & Rolf decided to close their ready-to-wear operations and focus on couture and fragrance – and neither brand is any the worse off for doing so. Jean Paul Gaultier makes a profit, going up each year. And arguably Viktor & Rolf’s conceptual-art sensibility makes more sense in the creative forum of couture than it does within the commercial constraints of ready-to-wear.
Viktor & Rolf haute couture autumn/winter ’18/’19 show.
“The magic of haute couture is the fact that almost everything is possible,” says Mabille. “It is a secret world, all created for one special individual.” It is an alluring proposition – one still so exclusive that very few of us will ever get to experience it. As hair stylist Sam McKnight observes in “These clothes are something that the vast majority of people in the world will never see close up, they’ll never touch, they’ll never be in the same room as. It’s so aspirational that it’s breathtaking.” Upholding artisan traditions in a fresh, modern way? Little wonder couture has found its groove in the era of Instagram.