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9th Aug 2019
When you think of a classic Italian dish, it’s probably one of three; pasta, pizza, risotto. And with so many options for flavours, ingredients and toppings, it’s hard to settle on just one — especially when the options extend to hybrids of other famous Italian dishes.
Enter, the osso buco risotto Milanese. Yes, the famous risotto of its city namesake can be combined with the meaty, wintery stew-like favourite of millions. And trust us, it’s delicious.
Appearing in his latest cookbook, Marriage Of Flavours, Australian chef Scott Pickett has shared with Vogue Living the recipe to one his favourite meals, best served piping hot and on a cold winter’s night — preferably with family and friends in tow. As the force behind Estelle, Saint Crispin and Matilda, Pickett knows a thing or two about creating the perfect dish, describing his method of rice cooking for amateur chefs.
“There is a lot of dispute and discussion about how to cook the rice: some stir, some let it be, some even bake it in the oven. Ask most Italians and they all have their own little tricks depending on the region they are from. For me, I like to cook, add stock, and stir, add stock and stir. It gives the rice a rich, creamy texture,” he says.
As for his top tip for nailing the meaty risotto, Pickett suggests letting the veal cool before transferring to the rice. “When slow-cooking or braising meat, it’s always best to let it cool in the juices before removing it from the pan. Doing so keeps the meat moist and this way any juices it releases will be soaked back into the meat, plus the remainder will make a great base for stocks and sauces.”
Paired with a good quality glass of red wine (Nebbiolo is Pickett’s pick), it would be hard to find a better winter meal. Buon pranzo!
Osso Buco
- 1 kg ripe tomatoes
- 4 × 350–450 g slices veal
- ¼ cup olive oil
- 2 cloves garlic, finely sliced
- 2 brown onions, diced
- 2 anchovies, chopped
- 250 ml dry white wine
- 2 litres veal or chicken stock
- 1 large sprig thyme
- 1 large sprig rosemary
- 1 large sprig sage
- 1 bay leaf
- Good pinch of saffron
Gremolata
- ½ bunch flat-leaf parsley, leaves picked and chopped
- Finely grated zest of 2 lemons
- 1 garlic clove, finely grated
Risotto
- 50 ml olive oil
- 5 golden shallots, finely diced
- 2 cloves garlic, crushed
- 500 g canaroli or arborio rice
- A pinch of saffron
- 50 g parmesan, grated
- 25 g butter
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- ½ lemon (optional)
- Sea salt
- Freshly ground black pepper
For the osso buco, score a cross in the base of each tomato and place into a large heatproof bowl. Cover with boiling water and stand for 2 minutes, then drain. When cool enough to handle, slip off the skins. Cut in half crossways and scoop out the seeds, then roughly chop the flesh.
Season the meat well on both sides with salt and pepper. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large flameproof casserole over high heat. Sear the meat on both sides until well browned, then set aside. Reduce heat to low and heat the remaining olive oil. Add the garlic to the pan and cook until caramelised, then add the onion and anchovies and cook until tender.
Add the tomato to the pan and increase the heat to medium. Cook, stirring often, until the tomatoes have softened and broken down. Pour in the white wine and cook until reduced by two-thirds. Add the stock, herbs and saffron and bring to the boil.
Preheat the oven to 160°C. Return the meat to the pan and submerge in the liquid. Cover with a lid or foil and bake for 2–2 ½ hours, until the meat is just coming away from the bone. Allow the meat to rest in the cooking liquid until lukewarm, then transfer to a plate, cover and set aside. Strain the cooking liquid through a fine sieve, pressing on the vegetables to extract as much as possible. Place 1 litre of the stock in a saucepan for the risotto. Put the rest back into the casserole and return the meat. Reheat in a low oven while you make the risotto.
For the gremolata, mix the ingredients in a bowl and set aside.
To make the risotto, heat the reserved stock over medium–low heat and keep warm. Heat the olive oil in a wide saucepan over medium heat. Add the shallot and garlic and cook until tender. Add the rice and toast until lightly browned, then stir in the saffron. Add the hot stock a ladle at a time, stirring constantly and making sure it is fully incorporated before adding more. It will take about 25 minutes to cook the rice, adding stock and stirring, until it is creamy but the grains still have a slight bite. Stir the parmesan and butter into the risotto, with the olive oil and a squeeze of lemon juice if you like. Season to taste.
Serve the osso buco with the risotto, scattered with gremolata.
Marriage Of Flavours, $39.99, is published by Penguin Random House and is out now.
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