Milan is always the epicentre of glamour—and who better than the iconic J-Lo strutting down the catwalk in that dress to assert this very message. From sultry Villanelle-inspired blood-red lips to an homage to great artists, the beauty looks were versatile, rich and scaled from the utterly wearable to completely experimental.
Here are the five key beauty trends you need to know from Milan Fashion Week spring/summer 2020:
[Pictured above]: The trend: Modern masterpiece
Where we’ve seen it: Moschino, Salvatore Ferragamo, Marni, MGSM and Stella Jean.
What you need to know: Italy is all about art, the Renaissance was born here, and so it’s fitting that designers looked to legacy artists to inspire the spring/summer 2020 shows. With muses from Picasso to Frida Kahlo, beauty took museum masterpieces to new heights with abstract eyelids and lips, and hair worthy of its own sculpture garden.
“It’s an abstract expressionist eye with a lucite finish, inspired by [creative director] Paul Andrew’s Murano glass accessories from the collection,” says Fara Homidi, make-up artist at Salvatore Ferragamo. “It’s got an ’80s, lady-of-leisure feel with the colours. We created the high-shine finish with MAC Cosmetics Lipglass!”
Recreate the look: Get creative with your brush, invest in a palette full of tonal shades that are rich in pigment, and play with colour across the eyelids and temples.
The trend: ’80s mermaid
Where we’ve seen it: Versace, Missoni, Bottega Veneta and Iceberg.
What you need to know: The film Splash turns 35 this year, but it’s become a modern reference for make-up artists and hair stylists this season. Think of Daryl Hannah’s ultimate ‘wet look’ as a lesson in sexy, sultry, slightly undone beauty. With out-of-the-ocean hair and salty makeup, the siren’s call is strong on Milan’s spring/summer 2020 runways. At Versace, hair stylist Guido Palau told Vogue: “It’s meant to look like you’ve just got out of the shower. It’s very quick, very sexy, and very Donatella. Once you’ve really achieved the wet texture, you can take a few pieces of hair from your hairline and brush them across your forehead for that fresh on-the-go look.”
Recreate the look: Focus on adding definition and texture to tousled hair for the ultimate modern finish. Plenty of hairspray worked through with the fingers will keep everything in place.
The trend: Femme fatale
Where we’ve seen it: Prada, Max Mara and Jil Sander.
What you need to know: Jodie Comer, AKA Villanelle from Killing Eve, sat front row at Max Mara—and she is definitely the poster girl for this trend. The show referenced Villanelle’s viciously chic style; and it wasn’t the only Milanese runway to create a slick, femme fatale mood. From Prada’s scalpel-sharp hair to Jil Sander’s blood-stained lips, this trend offers mischief and danger in equal measure.
Recreate the look: Embrace deep tones on the lips and remember to keep skin simple and fresh. The finish should be cool, effortless and unshakeable.
The trend: Spice Girl
Where we’ve seen it: Fendi, Giorgio Armani and Marco de Vincenzo.
What you need to know: What did Milan’s designers really, really want? Space buns, glitter eyes and other rave-worthy details, apparently.
“It’s about childish hairstyles, a bit messy and giving the impression that the girls did it themselves,” hair stylist Sam McKnight tells Vogue. “We actually let the girls have whatever hairstyle they want! I want it to look like they did it themselves, using my hair products of course. The trick is to not make them look too perfect.”
Recreate the look: Throwback to 2001’s MTV Music Awards to capture the attitude, with as many tiny hair twists as you like, sparkly lids and cheekbones and baby pink lipstick or gloss.
The trend: Bare-faced chic
Where we’ve seen it: Jil Sander, Prada and Antonio Marras.
What you need to know: While the eyes, lips and hair provided plenty of detail and intricacy, the key trend for skin remained bare and fresh-faced for the majority of looks. It’s a look that’s been championed for a few seasons, think barely-there or no makeup at all, perhaps just a touch of concealer under the eyes. From makeup artist Lucia Pieroni’s clear complexions at Jil Sander to Pat McGrath’s pale and interesting faces at Prada, skin is in.
Recreate the look: Make sure your skin is super clean and super hydrated, with just a smudge of concealer around the eye and nose shadows. Absolutely nothing more.
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